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Akne v kozmetični kabini

Acne in the beautician’s cabin

The pilosebaceous structure is a hair and a sebaceous gland, the excretory ducts of which are always brought to the surface of the skin in the form of a single follicular opening.
Pathogenesis of oily problem skin:

Follicular hyperkeratosis
Sebum hyperproduction
Colonisation of Propionibacterium acnes
Disruption of the microbial balance
Inflammation

Etiopathogenetic forms of acne:

Ordinary: Comedonal, Papulopustular, Knotty
Special: Acne in newborns, childhood; Inverse acne; Fulminant acne; Acne due to endocrinopathies; Acne tarda (late acne)

Clinical forms of acne: the usual ones that occur most often are comedonal, papulopustular, nodulocystic forms.

Morphological elements in acne: these are primarily open comedones (black dots) and closed ones. As the inflammatory process progresses and microorganisms reproduce, pustules become visible. Moreover, in more severe forms of acne, the affected area may undergo necrotic melting, leading to the formation of characteristic nodes and cysts.

Clinical manifestations of acne

absence of inflammatory signs; open and closed comedones, up to 10 pustules
papular rash, up to 10 pustules
pronounced signs of inflammation, large papules, pustules
cystic-indurated changes, pustules

The European classification recommends that we pay our attention to the assessment of the affected area.

0 – Clear/practically clear skin – No rash/ practically no rash (hyperemia, hyperpigmentation)
1 – Practically clear, practically no rash – Several open and closed comedones, several papules
2 – Mild acne – The affected area is less than half of the face, several open and closed comedones, several papules and pustules
3 – Moderate acne – The affected area is more than half of the face, multiple open and closed comedones, multiple papules and pustules, one node
4 – Severe acne – The affected area is the entire face, multiple papules, pustules, rarely nodes
5 – Very severe acne – Strongly pronounced inflammatory elements, nodes

If the affected area is the entire face plus the chest and back, then this is a severe form of acne that requires systemic treatment. In cases of severe acne, there is extensive inflammation, the presence of nodules, post-acne marks, and scarring. These conditions typically necessitate systemic treatment.

Causes

Genetic predisposition
Peripheral hyperandrogenism
Impaired innate immunity

What are the reasons for such conditions? Peripheral hyperandrogenism refers to a genuine increase in androgen hormone levels.

Diagnostics

Detailed medical history collection (duration of the process, signs of hyperandrogenism, genetic predisposition, concomitant diseases)
Consultation of related specialists (gynecologist, endocrinologist)
Laboratory diagnostics (general blood test, biochemical analysis, examination of the endocrine system)

Dermatologist VS Cosmetologist

Systemic – taking drugs per os, intravenous injection – Prescribed by a doctor
Local – all topical remedies, procedures – Recommended by a beautician

Acne Treatment Principles

Relief of inflammation
Prevention of the formation of new pathological elements
Post-acne correction
Anti-relapse therapy

Stop inflammation

Systemic and topical products

retinoids
AHA and BHA
5 alpha reductase blockers
sulfur and zinc
niacinamide
benzoyl peroxide

Retinoids

GRANACTIVE RETINOID 2% (HPR Retinoid)

The latest generation retinoid is retinoic acid ester. Does not convert to retinaldehyde and retinoic acid
Binds to retinoid receptors on skin cells
Regulates the transfer of genetic information from DNA to RNA, stimulates the synthesis of collagen, moisturising glycosaminoglycans

HPR SERUM with Granactive retinoid 2%

Eliminates the appearance of acne and acne-like rashes.
Reduces hyperkeratosis.
By normalizing keratinization processes, it prevents horny scales from sticking together, that can clog pores.
It reduces the synthesis of sebum, normalizes the proliferation of sebocytes, since the cells of the sebaceous gland, like keratinocytes, have receptors on the nucleus for retinol.
It has an anti-inflammatory effect, blocks oxidative stress reactions in tissues, increases local cellular immunity of the skin.

AHA and BHA

Hyperkeratosis elimination
Anti-inflammatory effect
Antibacterial properties
Sebum reduction

Mandelic acid
Glycolic acid
Salicylic acid
Azelaic acid

PEEL-EXPERT LIGHT

gently smoothes the microrelief
accelerates tissue regeneration
fills the skin with antioxidants
stimulates thickening of the dermis
moisturizes, enriching the NMF of the epidermis

рН 3,3 Gel
Mandelic acid 15%; Glycolic acid 6%; Lactic acid 5%; Salicylic 1.5%; Arginine; Allantoin

PEEL-EXPERT M

skin microrelief smoothing
elimination of hyperkeratosis and excessive sebum secretion
elimination of epidermal hyperpigmentation

рН 1,9 Gel
Mandelic acid 40%

RENEWING ENZYM AHA SERUM

Glycolic acid; Keratoline; Raspberry extract

Use daily, overnight, after skin cleansing as a preparation

PRE-PEEL LOTION

Glycolic acid; Salicylic acid; Lactic acid; Phytic acid; Alcohol

Used for degreasing during the peeling procedure
pH 4.0

5 alpha reductase blockers

АС.NET™ – is the European leader in the dermatological treatment of oily skin problems..
Oleanolic acid:

inhibits the work of 5-alpha-reductase
blocks the synthesis of prostaglandins, reduces leukocyte infiltration
has antimicrobial properties against Propionibacterium acnes

Nordihydroguaiaretic acid:

has anti-inflammatory properties
is an inhibitor of protein metabolism in the Golgi complex
is a powerful antioxidant

TOTAL OIL-CONTROL SERUM

Addresses all 4 oily skin concerns
Powerful protection against bacterial growth
Decreased activity of 5-alpha reductase by 68%
DOES NOT dry the skin out

АС.NET™ (3%); Red algae extract; Salicylic acid; Aloe Vera

SULFUR

has a keratolytic effect
has a powerful anti-inflammatory effect, suppressing inflammatory mediators and reducing lipid peroxidation
has an antidemadetic effect
actively participates in the synthesis of connective tissue, stimulates regeneration processes

ZINC OXIDE

antiseptic effect
drying effect
natural UV filter

NIACINAMIDE

water-soluble form of vitamin B3
has an anti-inflammatory effect by inhibiting the activity of 3-5-cAMP-phosphodiesterase
inhibits the synthesis of triglycerides in sebocytes
promotes an increase in the number of ceramides in the epidermis

Prevention of the formation of new pathological elements

Cleansing
Peelings
Sebum-regulating care procedures

Anti-relapse therapy

Regular procedures in the cosmetologist’s cabin
Home skincare

Comprehensive program for the correction of oily and problematic skin

6-8 procedures, interval: 5-7 days
Clinical situation:

Excessive sebaceous gland activity
open +/- closed comedones
Enlarged pores
Single inflammatory elements
Post-acne

Course program:

Seboregulating care
Peel Expert Light/M
Sebum-regulating treatment with facial cleansing
Peeling care Peel Expert M
Peeling care Peel Expert M/Shine
Peeling care Peel Expert Shine
Peeling care Peel Expert Shine

SEBO-REGULATING CARE PROTOCOL WITH DEEP CLEANSING

Cleansing P171 Ultra-norm cleansing gel, P175 Ultra-norm cleansing tonic
Mask for 10 min, P200 Soft-peeling enzyme mask, rinse with water
P100 Deep cleansing jelly mask for 15 minutes under the film. Carry out manual comedone extraction, antiseptic treatment
P176 Total oil control serum + locally – P213 Local SOS solution
P212 Sebo-norm mask – 15 min, rinse with water
Targeted Serum
Eye care – Р204 Matrix eye cream
Finishing cream – P221 Lipid balancing light cream or H218 Sun-block emulsion SPF50

Options for combining Peel Expert peels with deep cleansing facial

Oily skin

1. To facilitate face cleansing BEFORE applying the Deep cleansing jelly-mask – P100

If the skin is sensitive, has enlarged pores, “black dots”, narrow excretory ducts of the sebaceous glands, we use the Peel-Expert Light (M304) peeling protocol
If the skin is dense, has multiple open and closed comedones we use the Peel-Expert M (M310) peeling protocol

Peel Expert peeling protocol + sebum-regulating care with deep pore cleansing

Cleansing P171 Ultra-norm cleansing gel
Mask for 10 min Р200 Soft-peeling enzyme mask, then rinse
M303 Pre-peel lotion AHA&BHA.
М304 Peel-Expert Light / М – exposure time 3-5 min.
Neutralizer M311, then rinse with water
P100 Deep cleansing jelly-mask – for 15 minutes under the film. Carry out manual comedone extraction, antiseptic treatment. Spot – P213 Local SOS solution
Р212 Sebo-norm mask – 15 min, then rinse with water
P176 Total oil control serum
Р204 Matrix eye cream
Finishing cream P221 Lipid balancing cream or Н218 Sun-block emulsion SPF50

2. For sanitation AFTER deep pore cleansing, apply peels before Sebo-norm mask – P212

If the skin is sensitive, has signs of dehydration, rosacea, use the Peel-Expert Light protocol – M304
If the skin is tight and insensitive – Peel-Expert M – M310

Peel Expert peeling protocol + sebum-regulating care with deep pore cleansing