Natural Mechanisms of Skin Moisturization

The Importance of Hydrated Skin

• Protection against dryness and irritation – especially important when exposed to aggressive environmental factors such as wind, sun and pollution
• Maintaining elasticity and firmness – reduces the appearance of wrinkles and signs of aging
• Stimulation of cellular renewal – helps fight damage and pigmentation
• Prevention of various problems – increased skin sensitivity, premature aging
• Increases skin radiance – provides healthy skin color and tone

Factors Affecting Skin Moisture Levels

External factors:

• temperature, humidity, sun and wind exposure
• skin care products

Internal factors:

• hormonal levels
• general condition of the body

The skin has its own physiological processes of self-regulation, such as a natural moisturizing factor, intercellular lipids, a lipid barrier that helps moisture not evaporate from tissues. External factors influence the self-regulating hydration system.

Mechanisms of skin moisture regulation

• Osmotic mechanism
• Active water transport
• Metabolic activity of keratinocytes (lipids + NMF)
• External factors (humidity, temperature, sun and wind exposure)

All these mechanisms work together to maintain optimal skin hydration levels and prevent it from drying out.

Osmotic mechanism

• diffusion of water through the walls of blood vessels into the dermis
• Water binds to mucopolysaccharides (hyaluronic acid) of the intercellular substance of the dermis, forming a highly viscous gel.
• Excess moisture slowly rises into the stratum corneum of the skin, gradually penetrating into the epidermis and moisturizing it – passive water transport

Active water transport through the aquaporin system

• Aquaporins are integral proteins that form pores in the cell membrane
• highly selective water channels for osmotically active molecules
• Aquaporin-3 (water + glycerol) is built into the keratinocyte membrane

2003 – Peter Agre – Nobel Prize

AQUAXYL

• enhances the activity of Aquaporins-3
• increases the content of glycerol
• increases the content of GAG in the epidermis
• stimulates the synthesis of ceramides
• improves the barrier functions of the skin
• strengthens intercellular contacts
• prevents moisture loss

HYDRA HELP MASK

Р135 – 200 ml, Н136 – 100 ml
(AQUAXYL, hyaluronic acid)

• Restoring skin’s hydrobalance
• Long-lasting effect of deep hydration
• As a screen under a mask to enhance the effect
• Soothing effect after chemical peels

Does not need to be washed off! Press into the skin lightly.

Mechanisms of skin moisture regulation

• Binding of water coming from outside (environment and cosmetic procedures)
• Retention and accumulation of water using a complex of hygroscopic molecules
• Prevention of transepidermal water loss

Metabolic activity of keratinocytes

• The natural process of skin renewal releases amino acids
• The conversion of amino acids produces urea
• The metabolism of glucose produces lactic acid
• Glycolysis produces saccharides

Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF)

The natural moisturizing factor of the skin includes :

• amino acids (serine, lysine, arginine, proline, alanine, valine, histidine, phenylalanine)
• urea
• lactic acid
• saccharides (sodium lactate, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid – PCA, hyaluronic acid, glucose and glycerol)

With age, the natural moisturizing factor of the skin is depleted. In other words, the amount of amino acids and hyaluronic acid in the dermis decreases, the urea content diminishes.

Restoring NMF is the main task for maintaining the moisture level in the skin:

• Basic components
• Combination of innovative synthetic complexes in certain concentrations

Arginine

• precursor of nitric oxide
• improves microcirculation
• stimulates collagen synthesis
• retains water molecules
• promotes regeneration, prevents scar formation
• provides antioxidant protection

Lactic acid

• synthesized in the process of glycolysis to pyruvate, then converted to lactate
• up to 10% has moisturizing properties
• maintains optimal pH balance of the skin
• strengthens the epidermal barrier
• improves skin hydration and stimulates cell renewal
• has antibacterial and antioxidant properties

PEEL-EXPERT LIGHT

М304 – 50 ml; pH 3.3; gel texture
All-encompassing, revitalizing peel with WOW effect
Without downtime
All-season
Start of a course of peels for any skin type

✔ combination of acids + amino acids + allantoin
✔ moisturizes, enriching the NMF of the epidermis
✔ gently smoothes the microrelief
✔ accelerates tissue regeneration
✔ fills the skin with antioxidants
✔ stimulates the compaction of the dermis

Mandelic acid 15%, Glycolic acid 6%, Lactic acid 5%, Salicylic 1.5%, Arginine, Allantoin

Hyaluronic acid: its role and functions

• Moisture retention. Hyaluronic acid molecules have a unique ability to attract and retain water, forming gel around cells.
• Stimulates collagen production, improves skin elasticity and tone
• Protects against the environment, has antioxidant properties
• Supports cell renewal, participates in regeneration processes

Biomimetic serums with hyaluronic acid from ReNeo Cosmetics:

H170/P117 Anti-Wrinkle Serum
H186/P185 3D-Lift Serum
H118/P116 Brightening Alpaflor Serum
H145/P105 Luxe-Age Gold Filling Serum

Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF)

NMF can be replenished not only with its constituent components, but also with artificially synthesized innovative molecules

• PENTAVITIN®
• HYDROVITON24
• AQUAPRONT
• Algae derivatives

PENTAVITIN®

• complex of plant carbohydrates, the composition of the component is very close to the carbohydrate fraction of the stratum corneum of the epidermis
• capable of quickly binding to free amino groups of keratin
• moisturizing effect after the first application that lasts 72 hours!
• provides an improvement in the smoothness and softness of the skin by more than 50%
• reduces peeling and itching after two weeks of use.

P185/H186 3D-Lift Serum
P178/H179 Anti-red calming serum

HYDROVITON24

A combination of glycerin, panthenol (provitamin B5), urea, lactic acid and its salts, amino acids, natural extracts

• Provides 24-hour hydration to the skin
• Strengthens the skin barrier, helping protect the skin from moisture loss and external aggressors
• Helps repair damaged skin
• Helps soften skin and reduce irritation, leaving it smoother and more elastic
• Soothes sensitive and inflamed skin

М126 Conductive lift-booster
M127 Conductive aqua-booster

AQUAPRONT

• Works on the principle of creating a moisture depot in the skin for up to 24 hours.
• Glycosphingolipids serve as a carrier system in which hyaluronic acid and barley extract are encapsulated.
• Promote the production of collagen, which gives the skin firmness and elasticity
• In combination with vitamins A and E, they protect the skin from wrinkles and premature aging.

Algae derivatives

• salts of alginic acid extracted from brown algae of the Laminaria family
• is a high-molecular polysaccharide with a high content of hyaluronic acid

Alginic acid-based compounds, due to their powerful absorption capacity, improve cellular respiration and promote their saturation with oxygen. Alginic acid salts bind excess immunoglobulins of class E, preventing the development of allergic reactions, and also stimulate the synthesis of immunoglobulins of class A, providing local antibacterial protection of the skin.

P106 Luxe-Age Pearly Algae Mask works with age-related changes, stimulates the synthesis of Glycosaminoglycans, collagen, elastin, and like any alginate mask promotes deeper penetration of all previously applied components.

P131 Polypeptide Algae Mask is a warm alginate. The powder is diluted with hot water, which increases the activity of peptides stimulating cell metabolism. This mask provides comfort in the autumn-winter period.

P208 Anti-Wrinkle Mask contains peptide, which has a muscle relaxant effect and moisturizes tissues. After application we see maximum tissue replenishment, filling and smoothing of wrinkles.

Chondrus Crispus Algae Extract

• algae is rich in polysaccharides, especially carrageenan (about 55-70% of dry weight), proteins, vitamins (A, B, C, D and K), minerals (iodine, calcium, magnesium and zinc), and amino acids.
• moisturizing combined with an antiseptic effect
• For problematic skin: does NOT overdry and does NOT disrupt the protective barrier

P176/H177 Total oil-control serum

Methods of retaining moisture in the epidermis

Lipid mantle of the skin + ceramides retain moisture in the tissues, preventing transepidermal water loss (TEWL)

Sebum and lipid barrier

Sebum is an oil produced by the skin glands that helps retain moisture in the skin and prevents it from evaporating.

Consists of: triglycerides, squalene, waxes, cholesterol, fatty acids

RECOVERY CREAM

Р140 – 100 ml, Н101 – 50 ml
Regenerating toning cream
(DNA complex of marine origin, hyaluronic acid, Vitamin E)

• Stimulation of the restoration of your own DNA
• Activation of metabolic processes in the skin
• Intensive therapy for tired, aging skin
• Hydration levels increase by 30% in just 14 days of use!

СALMING LIGHT CREAM

P190 – 200 ml, Н191 – 50 ml
Soothing light cream for comfort of reactive skin
(White Willow Bark Extract, Asparagus Armata Extract, Ascophyllum Algae Extract, Vitamin E Unispheres, Squalane, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8)

• Encapsulated tocopherol
• Instant calming effect
• Strengthening of the vascular wall
• Peptide effect on the neuroreceptor apparatus
• Restoration of the epidermal barrier
• Tissue hydration

Gel texture, easily absorbed, does not leave stickiness

SOFT BALANCE CLAY MASK

Р189 – 200 ml, Н119 – 100 ml
Nourishing balancing mask with brightening softening effect
(beeswax, natural glycerin, sweet almond oil, avocado oil, tocopherol, kaolin)

• Detox therapy with a brightening effect
• Instant restoration of the lipid mantle of the skin
• Nutrition and regeneration for all skin types

Used in skin care procedures + to close pores after preventive manual comedone extraction + brightening protocol

Sunscreens

LATEST GENERATION CHEMICAL PHYSICAL UVA/UVB FILTERS
H210 Cream-Protector SPF30 – 50 ml – dense texture, for normal skin prone to dryness and sensitivity
+ Moisturizing and antioxidant effect (Ronacare Ectoin)

Н218 Sun-Block Emulsion SPF50 – 40 ml – ultra-light texture for combination and oily skin.
+ Matmarine Complex 3% – matting effect, sebum regulation

Water balance

• Water Intake – Water Excretion (organs that regulate water balance)
• Daily intake of sufficient amounts of water, essential amino acids, healthy fats

Key tasks for maintaining skin hydration

• Saturation of the epidermis with hygroscopic NMF molecules
• Retention of moisture in the deep layers of the skin
• Prevention of transepidermal water loss
• Protection from damaging environmental factors
• Combination/alternation of ReNeo Cosmetics protocols:

Nourishing care with corneotherapeutic effect
Moisturizing care with myorelaxing effect
Peeling care Peel Expert