GLYCOSPHINGOLIPIDS of biotechnological origin are absolutely identical to glycosphingolipids of the body. They are hydrophobic (complex lipids) and hydrophilic (glycosides) parts. They are embedded in the cell membrane structure and replenish the wall of cells damaged by oxidative stress or inflammatory processes. One of the complex lipids – cerebroside is converted into ceramides as a result of biochemical reactions while stimulating the synthesis of endogenous ceramides. Glycosphingolipids form hydrophilic channels in the stratum layer of the epidermis and thus increase the permeability for active ingredients with targeted action.
MEADOWFOAM OIL is saturated with long-chain fatty acids. They are incorporated into the lipids of the stratum corneum of the skin and form hydrophilic channels in it. Retain moisture on the skin and create a protective film without occlusion. Meadowfoam seed oil softens and strengthens the barrier function of the skin. It has antioxidant, anti-aging, and softening properties.
ZINC GLUCONATE has a powerful anti-inflammatory effect by reducing the production of inflammatory cytokines. In addition, it is an enzyme catalyst. It inhibits the enzyme 5-alpha-reductase, which blocks the synthesis of dihydrotestosterone, reducing the excessive work of the sebaceous glands. Due to its antioxidant properties, it participates in the synthesis of superoxide dismutase, supports the skin’s barrier function, turgor and hydro-balance.
VITAMIN B3 (NIACINAMIDE)
A Powerful regulator of cellular metabolism. Increases the synthesis of ceramides and free fatty acids in the epidermis, restoring the disturbed lipid barrier and moisture balance in the dermis, increasing the barrier function of the skin. It acts as an antioxidant, protecting cell DNA from UV damage. Niacinamide is a component of nicotinic acid and is very effective against hyperpigmentation by lightning and evening the skin’s tone. Niacinamide is a water-soluble form of vitamin B3. It is very effective against acne and post-acne, has an anti-inflammatory effect due to inhibition of 3-5-cAMP-phosphodiesterase activity, and inhibits triglyceride synthesis in sebocytes.
JOJOBA OIL is a mixture of liquid wax esters formed by monounsaturated linear fatty acids and alcohols. Like all waxes, this ingredient is oxidation-resistant and has a high-temperature stability, which allows its use as a natural preservative, preventing the cosmetic composition from going โrancidโ and oxidizing.
At the same time jojoba oil has many physico-chemical properties that allow referring it to the class of lipids. In its composition jojoba essential waxes are similar to the waxes that are part of sebum. On the one hand, mixed with the contents of sebum, jojoba oil forms a semipermeable lipid layer on the surface of the skin, effectively protecting and moisturizing it. On the other hand, the presence of unsaturated fatty acids allows jojoba oil to easily penetrate the lipid barrier, taking with it the dissolved biologically active components.
ALLANTOIN has an active emollient and healing effect, activates cell regeneration through cell proliferation. By softening the stratum corneum, allantoin stimulates the removal of keratinized cells, thereby effectively preventing the clogging of pores and the formation of inflammatory elements. The moisturizing and soothing properties of allantoin protect the skin against aggressive environmental conditions.
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